GARRETT CHURCHILL

These are a few of our summer projects, call us with yours.

2011-07-30T06:28:00.000-07:00

Check out the July newsletter to see some of the projects we have been working on.

http://myemail.constantcontact.com/These-are-a-few-of-our-summer-projects-call-us-with-yours-.html?soid=1104982944739&aid=9Gtg-hpwVhg

Water Me !

2011-07-11T03:20:00.000-07:00

We had some much needed rain on Friday afternoon unfortunately it came in the form of a thunderstorm and not a long, slow, soaking rain.

For those of us that install and care for plants we are always telling out clients that this kind of storm does not provide sufficient moisture to "skip" a watering. I just went an pulled a few soil cores from the lawn area outside my office window to find the soil is like dust again, no moisture down about 6" .

Watching the weather yesterday they were discussing what could be our 4th heat wave this week and we are still in July. The only rain in the forecast is showers. Speaking for all of your plants they would appreciate some water. It is critical for plants that were planted this year as well as plants that were planted last year. I was reminded of this just last week when I noticed a number of azaleas that we planted last fall struggling because that had had no additional water this year.

We are recommending that you water your landscape plants. For well established plants a good soaking every two weeks or so is adequate. For new plantings without the extensive root system of established plants please follow the care instructions that may have been on the tag or provided by the installer. For evergreen plants it is beneficial to continue the watering operations into the early winter since they will continue to loose water through the needles or leaves all winter long.

If the idea of holding a hose is not your idea of fun there are other options ranging from a soaker hose to a fully automated irrigation system. If you have any questions or need any assistance please let us know.

Winter Plant Injury

2011-01-24T07:07:00.000-08:00

The last ten years or so have seen normal to milder temperatures characterized by the absence of extreme cold like we have seen over the weekend to mid week, therefore there has been limited injury to ornamentals over this time period.

This year we are seeing temperatures that are running a few degrees below average and as noted an extremely cold snap that will last at least thru the day on Monday. In looking to spring what kind of damage can we expect from this colder than normal winter to date?

Typical winter damage can be seen as winter burn or physical damage from the weight of snow loads, damage that cant be seen is underground in the root zone. Damage rarely occurs on plants that are native to the area since they are well suited to the conditions. With ornamentals the damage will occur on plants that are at the northern edges of their hardiness zones.

Roots may be damaged or killed as a result of the extreme cold or they could be damaged by frost heave. Either way the best cure for root damage is to adequately insulate the soil with a thick layer of mulch. this will help to mitigate the extremes in temperature and limit any heaving in the soil.

To mitigate the effects of winter burn ensure plants have adequate moisture going into the winter months. If there is a time that the soil defrosts and you can water during the winter that will help as well. Applying an anti desiccant such as wilt proof prior to the temperatures staying in the low thirty's will also help to limit winter burn. Physical damage is generally caused by snow load on the branches of trees and shrubs. With colder temperatures the branches are brittle so be careful while removing the snow. Snow is actually a good insulator of the ground and plants during the cold months.

Some of the information included came from: The Effects of Cold January Temperatures on Landscape Plants. Ron Kujawski, Extension Educator UMass Extension Landscape, Nursery and Urban Forestry Program.

Happy New Year

2011-01-17T11:32:00.000-08:00

Our January news from the garden is availible on line.

We have the top ten reasons to think about your garden in the winter

Removing snow and ice from pavers, concrete, brick, and bluestone.

A few good recipes that dont require a grill and standing out in the cold.

http://www.garrettchurchill.com/news/1_2011.htm

Winter Pond Care

2011-01-04T14:03:00.000-08:00

With what could be the last days of January that are above freezing there are a few chores you should consider taking care of in the pond before it freezes again.

1. Remove as much organic debris from the pond as possible. Use a net to remove leaves. Cut back any plants that may still be in the pond. If this debris is left in the pond it will decompose. The decomposition process will give off gases that are toxic to the fish.

2. If you are keeping the pump running for the winter remove any filter media that may slow the water enough to allow it to freeze. If you are not going to keep the pump running now would be a good time to remove it.

3. If the pump is coming out make sure you install a heater or an aerator to keep a hole in the ice during the winter months.

If your pond is deeper than 18" there is very little chance it will freeze solid in our climate. Keeping the pump running will ensure that the pond only freezes on the surface.

Limiting the organic debris left to decay in the pond over winter and utilizing a method to keep a hole in the ice so any gases can escape will give your fish the best chance of surviving the winter.

PLEASE do not hit the ice with a hammer should your pond freeze over, it will cause a concussive force that may kill your fish.

December News From The Garden

2010-12-21T05:16:00.000-08:00

The December News from the Garden is available on-line at

http://www.garrettchurchill.com/news/12.2010.htm.

Check out the holiday recipes provided by Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet.

Be sure to check the things to do article for ways to protect your home during the winter months.

This is the second consecutive news letter we have sent out. By the time spring roles around I may have done this enough tomes to actually role through the entire season. Wish me luck. If you have any suggestions for topics you would like covered in the news letter or specific garden questions please let me know.

info@garrettchurchill.com

November News From The Garden

2010-11-16T05:50:00.000-08:00

Our most recent Newsletter is availible on line. The contents include
Fall Garden Care
Fall Planting Specials
Holiday Lighting
Landscape Lighting
Gift Certificates
You can access the newsletter at http://www.garrettchurchill.com/news/11.2010.htm

A Garden Gate

2010-10-04T04:48:00.000-07:00

This garden entrance is a hybrid of a few of our past projects and reflects our clients eclectic taste.

It all began with a visit to Montgomery Community College where our client saw a similar structure with a finished cedar arbor. His desire was to replicate the idea using a material for the arbor that was less formal and more rustic.

After discussing a few options and reviewing a few older projects we decided on harvested eastern red cedar with the bark intact. We have done arbors in the past where we have stripped the bark to reveal the wood.

The work began by excavating the footings to a depth of 3' to ensure there was no movement of the columns during the winter months. We then poured concrete footings. Concrete block was installed followed by stone veneer. The columns were then capped with 1-1/2" Bluestone.

The final step was to construct the pergola and fabricate the gates utilizing harvested eastern red cedar. The beams were secured to the bluestone caps and the remainder of the pergola built on the beams.

The stone veneer utilized for this project was real stone from Quarry Cut. They offer a full range of colors in square cut and irregular. Real stone veneer is much heavier than manufactured veneers making it a little more difficult to work with but the results are worth the extra effort. Stone veneers have gained in popularity over the years and can be applied to homes, walls, and fireplaces without the need for a wider foundation or the worry of all the weigh of quarried stone.

From wet to dry.

2010-07-01T11:22:00.000-07:00

Last year-- Mild and moist. We had rain throughout the summer with mild more comfortable temperatures. This time last year I was complaining about the amount of rain and how it was slowing work down.

This year-- HOT AND DRY! So far this year has been nothing short of a complete opposite to last year. The winter season of 09 -10 saw the most snowfall on record for the Philadelphia area. The snow was on top of already moist soils creating saturated conditions for the late winter early spring when we had storms strong enough to blow down a lot of trees.

When spring finally came to an end the water faucet that was open since last year finally closed. High temperatures have followed with a number of days above ninety in the month of June. While I write this article the sky's are blue and the temperature is in the mid 80's, it is absolutely beautiful outside. I am told it wont last, the heat and the humidity are scheduled to return with a vengeance for next week.

This is not the doom and gloom weather forecast as much as a friendly reminder that you will need to think about getting the hose out and watering your plants. Watering, if at all possible, should begin before your landscape starts to show the signs of stress, such as wilting leaves or browning and dried up leaves.

The best way to water established plants is slowly for a long duration to make sure the water works its way down into the soil. Water an area for up to an hour once a week or so to make sure the soil is sufficiently moist. Watering for short periods of time more frequently will encourage shallow rooting. We want the roots of our plants to grow as deep as they are intended to to look for water and help anchor the plant.

In addition to watering this would be a great year to consider a second mulching, or mulching for the first time this season if you had decided to put it off this year, if there does not seem to be a sufficient amount to help keep the soil protected from the suns rays and the drying winds. Mulch will also help to insulate the soil from the vast fluctuations between day and night temperatures.

For newly planted gardens there is a much more critical need for water. During the hot dry days of July and August you may need to water some plants daily and others every other day. This, of course, will depend on the temperatures, wind, sun exposure, and rainfall. Drought tolerance does not play a role until the plant is established. Don't think that buying and planting a drought tolerant plant means that you don't need to water it. All new plantings go through a establishment period where they must be watered.

Keep your hoses ready and remember it is better to water in the morning before it gets too hot. Try to avoid watering at night if the plants will not have a chance to dry before the sun goes down. Hot, humid weather with moisture on the plants is an ideal situation for diseases to develop.

Pleasant Surprises

2010-06-14T13:41:00.000-07:00

What a busy weekend. My social calendar had more on it that usual but we all managed to survive. For the past 6-7 years my wife has been running an event at the June Fete called Breakfast on the Farm. For those of you unfamiliar with the June Fete it is a terrific fundraiser for Abington Memorial Hospital held the first or second weekend in June. Every year the boys and I go help make pancakes and sausage for a few hundred people early on Saturday Morning.

My trip to the Fete Grounds takes me past a job that we had designed and installed a number of years back. For some reason this year it really caught my attention. This project sits on a road that is not highly traveled and therefore I really only go back in that neighborhood once a year. I think the warmer than usual spring had the roses, spirea, hydrangeas, and other plants further along than in years past and everything looked beautiful.

2010-04-10T11:45:00.000-07:00

Landscape Industry Certifications

I will be the first to admit that the landscape industry is not viewed by many as being “professional”. After all what do you really need to know? You just dig a hole in the ground and drop in the plant or dig out a little soil, throw down some sand and build a patio, right? It’s just not that easy.

From the time I decided to venture into this business, that was an interesting conversation with my parents after I had headed off to college, I determined that I would conduct myself and my business in a professional manner. To me that meant that I would not just throw plants in the ground or drop some bricks on top of sand. My first step was to get an education, Temple for a landscape design and business degree and then Penn for a master’s degree in landscape architecture. I learned about design, plants, construction, accounting, and marketing. After all that time in school there is still not a day that goes by that I don’t learn something else that makes me more knowledgeable about my chosen profession.

There are many companies that pride themselves on their professionalism and knowledge and I am happy to call them my colleagues. That being said I am sure many of you know there are an equal number, or more likely a larger number of companies out there that don’t operate on a professional level. For many of them I believe it is just a matter of gaining the experience required to become a professional. For the others they are trying to make a quick buck before anyone figures out they have no idea what they are doing.

In addition to education, certifications are a way to show your professionalism. We are committed to training our team and ensuring we have the certifications that are relevant to our work.

If you are planning on hiring a contractor / designer / installer for work around you home ask the following:
1. What certifications do you and your team members have?
2. Will you submit a certificate of insurance prior to starting the work?
3. Are you registered with the Attorney General?
4. Can I have a list of references?

Storm Damage

2010-03-17T12:45:00.000-07:00

The storms over this past weekend wreaked havoc with larger trees. Although the damage was predominantly to evergreen trees, larger deciduous trees sustained damage as well. The two elements of our first nor’easter of the season that didn’t bring snow were strong wind gusts and lots of rain. If we had not gone into the winter season with saturated soils and had not had in excess of 70” of snow the damage from this storm would have been less severe. During periods of high winds trees with leaves or needles effectively act as sails catching the wind or providing resistance. When the soil is not saturated the roots have something to grab onto and support the tree. With many areas having saturated or mucky soils the roots could not support the tree when the winds were gusting. The damage would have been more severe to deciduous trees if the soil conditions were similar and the leaves were out.

So what can be done to avoid this situation in the future? We can’t control Mother Nature so reducing the amount of precipitation is out of the question. When planting larger trees try to avoid areas on your property that are wet all the time or have standing water after a storm. Consider grading areas of your property to eliminate standing water. There are many smaller trees and shrubs that tolerate if not thrive moist to wet conditions so consider these alternatives. Have larger trees on your property evaluated by a certified arborist. They can recommend fertilization or bio stimulants to strengthen the tree, or pruning to allow air to move through the plant reducing it’s resistance. There was a movie titled “The Perfect Storm,” these are “The Perfect Conditions” for trees to be up rooted.

Green Industry Education Committee News and Alerts

2010-03-02T13:15:00.000-08:00

Green Industry Education Committee News and Alerts

Record Snowfall for Philadelphia

2010-02-19T07:53:00.000-08:00

The Philadelphia area has experienced a record snowfall year and we are not done yet. What does all the snow mean for gardeners?
First lets look at the positives. The snow cover has insulated and protected a lot of plants in the garden and insulated the ground from the freezing tempreatures. Snow cover helps protect against the drying winter winds. As the snow melts it add moisture back into the ground. Under normal conditions this is a positive thing but after all the rain we had in the fall we already have moist if not wet soils so this may slow down our ability to get back into the garden.
The negative aspect of all the snow the weight. Branches were laiden with alot of weight after the storm and many snapped. With all the plowing I didnt get to a clients property to shake the snow off the arbovitae and spent hours tying and staking to get them up right again. Many shrubs are still not visible and many still bent over from all the snow. At this point it is best to wait for the melt. Things will pop back. All broken branches should be prunned. Most of the plants will recover.